To Cover or Not to Cover?
Covering your outdoor unit during the winter has been a “heated debate” in the HVAC field for years now. There are pros and cons to both sides and each contractor will recommend something different. Here we will explain both sides and then we will give you our final recommendation.
Pros to covering your air conditioner:
* Keeps your air conditioner coils a little cleaner so it may run a little more efficiently when you use it again.
* Prevents heavy debris like sticks, branches and other yard waste from blowing into your AC unit.
* Helps prevent water from directly resting on your coils and freezing, which could be damaging.
Cons to covering your air conditioner:
* Covering an entire unit may actually trap moisture by creating a high humidity environment as the sun beats down on the cover. Inside this moist environment is your electrical windings, wiring connections, and in some cases circuit boards. None of these items do well in the moisture.
* During the winter months the temperatures cause small animals to find a warm place to nest away from the elements. Covers provide a very tempting spot for these animals to call home. Small animals can be detrimental to your unit by chewing the wiring harness for their bedding. This can lead to a very expensive fix for you in the spring.
* Most AC manufacturers don’t specifically recommend covering the outside unit.
Our recommendation is that covering the unit is not necessary. If you do still want to cover your unit to keep out debris we have found that a simple piece of plywood across the top is a perfect fit. It is inexpensive, will keep out most debris, and leaves the sides open to keep moisture and animals out. If you do insist on covering the unit there are short covers available which will work similarly to the plywood but will cost you a little bit more.
September 22 was the first day of autumn; even though it seems like we just turned off the furnace for the summer, it’s time to make sure it’s in tiptop shape to make it through the winter. Since The Old Farmer’s Almanac predicts a winter that’s much snowier than normal and below average temperatures from mid-December through late January, having a furnace that can handle the job is essential.
Even though the phrase “snowier than normal” should spur you into action, here are some other reasons to have your furnace inspected and tuned-up before the first cold snap hits:
- A thorough inspection will tell you if everything is okay. Furnaces have wear-and-tear parts, and they need to be replaced. If your furnace isn’t inspected you’ll never know it’s wearing out until your furnace stops working. And emergency repairs cost a lot more than a tune-up, not to mention how inconvenient they are.
- Ensure your furnace is running safely. The “Green Apple Mechanical” technician will ensure that your flue pipe and/or chimney aren’t leaking or blocked by anything. Any blockage or leak can mean poisonous carbon monoxide gas is entering your home.
- Your warranty depends upon it. Every furnace manufacturer requires annual maintenance or your warranty will be invalidated.
- It’s good for your system. Think of it like a health plan for your furnace; annual maintenance may extend your furnace’s life by up to five years. With replacement costs in the multiple thousands of dollars, those extra years can save you a lot.
- It’s good for you. A dirty furnace is full of warm, moist air and the bacteria, fungus, and viruses that thrive in those conditions. Then, when the blower moves the air through your furnace, those pollutants move right along with it…into the rest of your home. A clean furnace means cleaner air.
- Dirty furnaces are unhappy. Any technician will tell you that the number one cause of furnace failure is dirt buildup. And, if your furnace is dirty it’s also running inefficiently because the airflow is inhibited. This costs you at least 10% more on your utility bill, all winter long.
- It’s safer. There’s a gas pilot safety and a safety circuit. They should be checked every year because if they’re not functioning correctly, they could make your furnace go “boom”.
- Early means easy. Scheduling your appointment before everyone else means that there will be a much better chance of an appointment time that’s convenient for you. Phone call scheduling takes about five minutes and the full tune-up takes about an hour. What’s an hour compared to four months of peace of mind?
The biggest reason to schedule now is to take advantage of our early season tune-up special. We guarantee your furnace won’t break down and that you’ll save on your utility bills, so there’s nothing to lose by scheduling your tune-up today. Call “Green Apple Mechanical NJ” today toll free at (888) 611-7191
Winter’s chill brings cozy decor and lazy afternoons spent sipping cocoa in front of the fire, but it can also bring major electrical bills. If heating your home is seriously expensive, then you’re going to want to read these nine cost-effective ways to stay warm this Winter.
Plastic Wrap Windows
If you’ve ever stood next to a drafty window, then you can attest that they’re major culprits of heat loss. Keep the cold air out affordably by covering windows with plastic. DIY window insulation kits are generally under $20 and allow you to secure plastic sheets with insulated tape and shrink wrap it with a hair dryer.
Add a Storm Door
Create an extra layer of padding between the elements and your house by adding a storm door. While it’s a little bit pricier up front, you can reduce energy loss up to 50 percent by purchasing a storm door made with low-emissivity glass or coating.
Install a Programmable Thermostat
Instead of keeping your heat on full blast all day, use a programable thermostat to set the temperature to turn it down while you’re out in the middle of the day and turn it back up right before you come home in the evening. Turning the temperature back at least 10 degrees for eight hours a day can save you up to 15 percent a year on your heating bill.
Fill in Insulation Gaps
Invisible cracks and gaps around the house allow valuable heat to seep out. Taking a little time in Summer or Fall to caulk or weatherstrip these leaks around the house will save you big money on your energy bill come Winter. Common areas in need of insulation include the space between the baseboard and the floorboard, behind electrical outlets, and around windows and attack hatches.
Hang Thermal Curtains
Invest in curtains with thermal lining. They’ll block heat and UV rays in the Summer and keep the cold air out in the Winter. When the mercury plummets, you can cut your energy bill down by up to 20 percent by keeping drapes closed during the day.
Reverse the Ceiling Fan
Ceiling fans usually have a switch you can flip to change the direction the fan blades are rotating in. By simply switching it to clockwise rotation in Winter, you’ll push hot air that has risen to the ceiling back down into the room. Doesn’t get easier than that.
Put Layers on Yourself
It’s a lot cheaper to throw on a sweater and some fuzzy slippers than to crank up the heat every time you get chilly, so keep warm layers close at hand and the temperature at a reasonable setting.
Improvise Wall Insulation
If tearing down the drywall to add insulation isn’t an option, then it’s time to get clever. You can line chilly external walls with cold-absorbing materials like a tall shelf filled with books, use decorative screens as cold air blockers, and even line baseboards with cardboard.
Position Furniture Around Heat Sources
For a free and temporary fix, give your living spaces a Winter makeover by rearranging furniture away from cold external walls and around heat sources, like the fireplace. It will make those frigid nights more enjoyable.
For example, you should always go with the most efficient furnace that you can afford. Furnace efficiency is a measurement of how much of the energy put into a furnace is converted into heating power for your home – measured in AFUE (the Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency). Minimum-efficiency furnaces must reach 80% AFUE in order to comply with regulations. At the other end of the spectrum, the iQ Drive® modulating gas furnace reaches 97% AFUE! With the iQ Drive gas furnace only 3% of the energy you put into the unit escapes up the flue. Essentially, you are using less natural gas to heat your home, which can lower your monthly utility costs.
Here are a few more things you should keep in mind when purchasing your new home furnace:
Indoor Air Quality
Variable Speed Blowers
Correct Sizing Matters
Rebated and Incentives
Before assuming your furnace is broken, remember that you could have a malfunctioning thermostat. From heating and cooling systems that seem to have failed to those that overwork – heating or cooling more than the temperature settings dictate – a thermostat throwing fits can masquerade as an appliance problem.
Before calling out HVAC repair companies, try troubleshooting your thermostat first. In many instances, simply repairing the thermostat or replacing it with a new one will save on unnecessary service calls.
How the thermostat senses the temperature and how it responds varies according to the type – electromechanical or electronic.
- Considered somewhat old-fashioned, electromechanical thermostats operate on basic mechanical principles. A bimetallic strip – a fancy name for what is nothing more than joined pieces of two different metals – rests, sometimes in a coil, under the thermostat cover. As the room temperature fluctuates, the coil expands or contracts, activating the contact. Think of a contact as a light switch – when flipped, an electrical circuit closes and the light – or the furnace or central air, in this case – operates. Without the contact, the electrical circuit is open and nothing happens.
- Sometimes, the bimetallic switch is coupled with a mercury switch – a small glass tube or “ampoule” filled with mercury – that tilts as the coil expands or contracts. A liquid conductor of electricity, as the mercury moves from one side of the tube to the other it either closes or opens the contact.
- If the thermostat controls both a heating and air unit, it has contacts on both sides. The mercury or bimetallic switch tilts in one direction for heat and the opposite for cooling. As the temperatures fluctuate, contact is made or broken and the circuit opened or closed on the given side, activating the corresponding equipment.
- Instead of mercury-filled tubes and strips of metal, electronic thermostats use heat-sensing receptors to monitor the room temperature and electrical circuits to respond to the digital data, turning on or off your heating and cooling equipment. Similar to a small computer, electronic thermostats will store data, allowing you to program settings. Wake up to a warm house, cool it while you sleep and set it to different temperatures on weekends to correspond to your needs. All it takes is a few pushes of the buttons.
- Digital sensors and circuitry provide greater temperature accuracy. Bimetallic strips and mercury switches allow “deadband” – a temperature range between which it fails to activate or shut down the furnace or air. This means even if you set your thermostat to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, the switch may not activate to turn equipment on or off until it’s much lower or higher.
- Thermostats may wear out. Since electronic thermostats involve electronic equipment instead of purely mechanical components, these thermostats are more complex, meaning there are more things to wear out. Consult the manufacturer’s thermostat literature or contact a qualified technician for troubleshooting specific to the thermostat involved. Given the relatively low replacement cost, in many cases buying and installing a new thermostat may prove a more cost-effective option.
Common Thermostat Problems
Most thermostat failures aren’t dramatic. Chances are, no shooting sparks, puffs of smoke or piercing alarms will signal you have a problem. It may be obvious, like the furnace refuses to come on or the display isn’t lit, or you may notice that the house is cooler than the temperature setting. All you know is something’s wrong and you want it fixed. Always start with the thermometer, troubleshooting according to the symptom. Many symptoms and causes overlap, and the general solutions narrow down to one of a handful of fixes.
Furnace or Central Air Doesn’t Start:
- Check for power. A blown fuse, tripped circuit breaker or dead batteries will prevent the thermostat from turning on the appliance.
- Is the thermostat excessively dirty? Buildup of dust, dirt, spiderwebs and nicotine, for example, can coat the inside of the thermostat, interfering with both electrical and mechanical components. It’s easy to overlook the inside of your thermostat during spring-cleaning, so a dirty thermostat is nothing uncommon. Simply use a soft, clean brush – an artist’s paintbrush works well – to brush the interior components gently. Move parts to ensure you reach every portion of the thermostat. A can of compressed air, such as is used for electronics, also works well.
- Are there loose wires or terminal screws inside the thermostat? Are the wires corroded? Never remove the thermostat cover without removing the batteries or cutting the power at the fuse or breaker box. Tighten screws and secure loose wires when necessary. Consult the manufacturer’s wiring schematics or have a qualified technician rewire the thermostat if needed.
- Replace the thermostat if other troubleshooting methods fail. The most expensive programmable electronic thermostat costs around a couple hundred dollars, and inexpensive mechanical ones cost around $20. Worrying over a thermostat you can’t make work – or paying a professional more than a new one costs – just isn’t worth it.
The Room Temperature Doesn’t Match the Thermostat Setting:
- Is the inside of the thermostat clean? A dirty thermostat is an inaccurate thermostat.
- Is the thermostat level? Hold a level underneath or above it and check. Careless installation or a forceful bump, knocking it off level, may alter the accuracy of the components.
- Is the thermostat in a poorly chosen area of the home? Thermostats located in direct sunlight, in front of cold or drafty windows and doors, or isolated from the main living areas may not regulate the temperature correctly. Consider relocating the thermostat, if possible, or taking other measures to solve the problem. Consult a professional for further information.
- The anticipator may not be set correctly. The anticipator is a little metal tab inside mechanical thermostats, mounted to a round dial with a printed scale. Pushing lightly on the anticipator, in either direction, may solve the issue. More complex adjustments require moving the anticipator to indicate the ampere setting needed for the furnace involved. Typically, this is specified in the owner’s manual or on the unit’s service panel. Consult a qualified technician for further assistance.
The Unit Turns On and Off Constantly or Won’t Turn Off:
- Is the thermostat clean, inside and out? Buildup of any type may interfere with proper thermostat operation.
- Does the anticipator need adjustment? Simply moving the anticipator arm one notch toward longer should cause a furnace to run longer during its cycle. Moving it away helps if the room temperature fails to reach the thermostat settings. Wait two or three hours after any adjustments to see if the problem is solved.
- Is the thermostat completely level? Use a level to adjust it until correct.
Updating Your Thermostat
If all else fails, consider completely replacing your old thermostat with a new digital, electronic thermostat. With a wide range of features and price tags, there’s one to fit most any budget. Touch screen operation, digital displays, alarms to remind you when it’s time to change your HVAC filters and other options make these thermometers very convenient.
Better yet, electronic thermostats help you save money. With old thermostats, every adjustment requires your attention. Programmable electronic thermostats, in contrast, allow you to maintain settings, letting you heat or cool your home only when you need it. The Department of Energy estimates you can save about 10 percent on your heating and cooling bill merely by lowering your thermostat 7 to 10 degrees for eight hours a day during the heating season and raising it similarly during the cooling season. When you think about it, that’s enough savings to pay your utility bill for almost an entire month.
Installing an electronic thermostat is, however, more complicated than installing a mechanical one due to the programming needed. An improperly installed thermostat can, of course, cause significant problems. If you are uncertain about your ability to install or program your own, contact a specialist from “Green Apple Mechanical NJ” to do it for you.
Although the first hint of cool fall weather may have you more focused on your furnace, this is the perfect time to install a new central air conditioning system. By getting the job done now, you’ll save money compared to the summertime costs and you’ll be ready to go with a reliable, energy-efficient cooling system next year.
Find Great Deals on New A/C Systems
A new central cooling system is an investment. Even though upgrading to a more efficient air conditioner will lower your cooling bills, it’s still worth it to save as much as you can on upfront purchase costs.
Many homeowners upgrade or install a new central A/C in early summer when they decide not to spend another hot summer without reliable air conditioning. Others are forced to replace their systems in the middle of summer when their existing cooling system breaks down. This keeps A/C system prices high all summer.
Come fall, demand for air conditioners drops off. HVAC equipment sellers who still have plenty of stock left over from summer often discount it to move it out of their inventory before winter. It’s a little like garden furniture going on sale at the end of summer.
In the Fall, Technicians Are Available and Affordable
Fall is one of the slowest periods for heating and cooling technicians. Thanks to the mild weather, the start of school and the upcoming holidays, many homeowners forget all about their air conditioners.
That means not only do many HVAC specialists have open spots in their work schedules, but they also offer favorable pricing to encourage customers to call in and fill those spots. Prices for HVAC services are lower in fall than at any other time of year.
Install a new central A/C in fall and not only can you get a good deal on installation work, but you also have a better chance of getting scheduled in with the kind of highly trained, experienced technician you want.
Putting in an air conditioner requires outdoor work, including digging. You might find air conditioners on sale in December, but getting the system installed in New Jersey’s cold, snowy winter weather may not always be possible. Even when it is, heating and cooling technicians usually have their schedules full with furnace installation and repair work.
Ditch Those Window Units
The window A/C units used in many homes have several drawbacks. Inconvenience is one. They’re usually put in place at the beginning of summer, then removed and put into storage come fall. In addition, window units can be uncomfortably loud, older models aren’t energy efficient, and any unsealed gaps around the units cause air leaks that let in hot, humid outdoor air.
Install a new central A/C this fall and it will be the last time you’ll ever have to pull out those window units and haul them to storage. Next summer, you’ll enjoy cool air in every room without any irritating noise. There’s a good chance your cooling bills will be lower, too.
Keep in mind if your home uses radiators, baseboard heaters or another ductless heating method, you’ll need to have ducts installed along with the new air conditioner. Duct sizing and installation adds time to the system installation job, so start early before the cold weather arrives.
Know When to Replace the A/C
If you already have a central air conditioner, but you’ve been considering upgrading, there are a few clear signs that tell you this fall is the time to do it.
- The system is old – An air conditioner that’s more than 10 years old runs less efficiently than modern systems and is at high risk for component failure no matter how well it seems to be running.
- The A/C has frequent breakdowns – Have you had to call a repair technician this year, last year and the year before that? Take time this fall to buy and install a new central A/C and next summer you’ll spend less time and money on A/C repairs, as well as enjoy lower energy bills and improved cooling performance.
- Cooling bills are rising – If every summer brings cooling bills that are much higher than the last, chances are it’s due to the steady drop in energy efficiency your system experiences as it ages.
Finding the right furnace
You can also choose to install electric heat, which comes from small registers located around the border of each room. Although the cost of installation averages between $1,000 and $2,000, this type of “furnace” isn’t a good idea for heating large spaces and comes with high energy costs. One newer option gaining popularity is a heat pump, which pulls in heat from the air or ground using refrigerant coils. Air source heat pumps cost $1,500 to $7,000, while ground source may cost $7,000 to $25,000. These furnaces can be used as air conditioning units in summer, but many can’t operate in extremely cold climates, limiting their efficacy.
The first is heat output, measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs); an “average” home is well served by a 60,000 BTU furnace. Units with higher BTU rating aren’t necessarily better for smaller homes, since they’ll cost more and hit ideal temperatures too quickly, then shut off – the result is an inconsistent comfort level.
Efficiency is the next consideration. Older-model furnaces were often rated 80 percent efficient or less, which means 20 percent of the heat generated was lost to waste. Many new models are rated 90 percent or better, with some in the 94 to 95 percent range. This small jump in efficiency translates to a decrease in utility costs.
It’s also important to determine how effectively a gas furnace can heat your home, in large part determined by its “staging.” Older furnaces were one stage, meaning they always ran at full power. Many newer furnaces are two stage, capable of running at 65 percent when first starting up to conserve fuel, and then ramping up to 95 percent as needed. More expensive three stage models also exist, which can run anywhere from 33 to 90 percent power in 1 percent increments.
Considering labor costs
Two warranties govern furnace installs and function. The first is the manufacturer’s warranty, which comes with the furnace and protects against defects in the furnace itself, such as inoperable fans or pilot lights that won’t stay lit. A contractor’s warranty covers the labor involved to make repairs if the furnace doesn’t work properly and is often good for a period of 5 to 10 years. Some contractors charge more for extended warranties.
Make sure to get any warranty in writing; also make sure that it specifies exactly what gets covered, for how long and what the contractor will do to fix the problem. Although the costs of installing a furnace vary significantly, you can avoid price pitfalls by doing your own research.
How Much Money Will I Save On My Gas Bill With a New Furnace?
If you’re thinking of buying a new furnace for your home, you’re likely hearing a lot about efficiency. You may also be wondering what you’re actually going to save on your gas bill. The following article is going to show you is the equation that you can use to figure this out quite accurately.
What Is Efficiency?
t’s important to know what efficiency is, or better yet, what it describes. Efficiency is about decreasing waste. You want all of the effort you “Input” into something to be productive, or “Output”. In this case, it’s fuel and you want all of what you burn to be used to heat your home. If your furnace is 80% efficient, then out of 100% of the fuel “Input”, 20% is wasted and 80% is “Output” and heats your home. Most of the waste is lost through the chimney. The higher the efficiency of your furnace, the less you waste. Note that efficiency does decrease over time and that it is important to maintain your furnace to maximize it’s efficiency over that time.
Things You Need To Know…
- How efficient is your furnace now?
- How much of your gas bill is for heating?
How Efficient Is My Furnace Now?
Let’s assume that your old furnace is the common type and is 80% efficient or less. Also, assuming that your furnace is about 20 years old and been at least somewhat maintained. If your furnace is much older and resembling a small car with a standing pilot, you may want to go with 55%. Somewhere in the middle, go with 63%. Again, a percent or 2 will not greatly impact our findings and you can work this with a couple different percentages to see the variation if you’d like.
We suggest that you assume your furnace is more efficient than it is so that you save more than you expect and not the other way around.
How Much of Your Gas Bill is for Heating?
You need to know how much we spend on heating so you can figure out how much you waste and what you’ll save with your new furnace.
On your gas bill there is a chart that shows your consumption over an average time (usually a year or so). To find out how much of your gas bill your furnace is using you will need to eliminate the amount of gas being used throughout the year on the stove, dryer, hot water tank etc… The summer months on the chart are representative of those items since you aren’t using the furnace. Subtract your average summer month gas bill from your winter average gas bill and your will get an average estimated monthly cost of operating your old furnace.
High Efficiency Furnace with PVC Flue
How much will you save?
The new furnace you are replacing will be 90% or higher efficient. RUUD furnaces installed by Neu-Wave have an average efficiency rating of 92% – 96% meaning that very little of the heat is lost and instead all of the heat is used for heating your home.
Assuming that your furnace is 80% efficient it means that for every $100 you spend on your heating bill, $80 is used to heat your home and $20 is wasted. If your furnace is very old and operates only at 50% – 63% efficiency, this figure will be even higher.
Using the above math, you are saving $12 to $16 per every $100 of your heating bill if your furnace is an average market model 10 to 15 years old and most commonly found in a typical North American single family residence.
If you are living in an older home and your furnace is 20 years old or higher, you are saving an average of $29 to $40 per every $100 you spend on your heating bill (depending on your existing furnace efficiency and the efficiency of the furnace you are installing).
Factor in the above estimate into your average monthly heating bill and you will discover that replacing your existing furnace with the high efficiency furnace does not cost you money but is actually saving your money in the long term.
As we say goodbye to summer, it is also time to say hello to all things fall! Cooler temps, college football, apple orchards, pumpkin spice lattes, AND fall home maintenance. Considering the minimal time investment and ease of the projects listed below, I’d say that our 5 steps for Preparing Your Home For Fall are well worth your efforts before the cooler weather is here to stay!
1. Clean out the gutters.
It is the job of your roof’s drainage system to shunt rainwater and debris away from your home’s foundation and exterior. For this reason, it is of the utmost importance to keep this system draining smoothly. Clogged gutters can lead to costly damage and a little fall-time forethought can ensure peace of mind and a well-functioning drainage system. Take the time to remove leaves and other debris from drain pipes and gutters in an effort to prevent clogging. This is also a wise time to invest in gutter mesh guards to prevent future accumulation.
2. Turn up the heat!
Start with making an appointment for an annual heating system check-up. It is extremely important that your heating system is working correctly and safely! Be sure to take the time to make sure all of your heating vents are free of furniture, carpet, or curtains. This is also the time of year to replace your heater filters and continue to do so as the cool temperatures continue.
3. Freshen up the fireplace!
Even if your fireplace isn’t used on a regular basis, you should still always inspect it annually for damage or hazards. Be sure to look for flue blockages (birds and squirrels can get trapped!), chimney damage (loose or broken joints on a brick fireplace), and don’t forget to clear out ash and charred wood. OR, if you’re like me, save yourself the trouble and call in a professional! But don’t forget to remind your chimney cleaner to check the damper for a tight close.
4. Check for drafts!
Seal Cracks and gaps around windows and doors with caulk and weather-stripping. This is an extremely cost-effective way to keep those heating bills in check.
5. Remove and store air conditioners.
Any window air conditioners should be unplugged and removed during the cooler seasons. Go the extra mile and dust and clean them before covering and storing. You’ll thank yourself in the springtime!
If your building’s furnace has been there for 10 or 15 years (or more), you may be wondering how much life it has left. You don’t want to shell out thousands of dollars for a new one if you don’t have to yet, but you also don’t want to be in a position of having to make a quick decision to buy a new furnace when it suddenly fails and you have no heat. How can you predict when it’s likely to fail so you can replace it proactively?
If you’ve noticed many of the following warning signs, it’s time to call a certified HVAC service company for an evaluation of your system and recommendations for replacement options.
1. It’s a teenager
Most light commercial furnaces are built to last 15 to 20 years, so if your furnace is up there in its “teen” years, it’s actually an old-timer in furnace years, and things are bound to go wrong in the near future. You should also take into account the furnace maintenance history. If you haven’t done routinely done your fall furnace maintenance, or had it regularly cleaned and tuned up by a Green Apple Mechanical expert, the expected life span may be reduced significantly.
2. It’s driving up your utility bills
Have you noticed your energy bills going up in the last few years? It may be more than just rate increases. Check your bills to determine if your usage is increasing. If so, your HVAC system may be losing efficiency as it ages. Your old system is probably not more than 60 to 70 percent efficient. If you replace it with a new one rated 97% efficient, you can save 30% or more on your energy usage.
3. It’s getting less reliable
Your old furnace is like an old car. As it ages, more and more parts start to break down. You may have had a number of repair issues over the past few years, but you’ve been lucky and they were fixable without breaking the bank. But once your furnace reaches that stage, you will continue to have frequent breakdowns until a major component fails and the unit has reached the end of its life.
4. It provides inconsistent heat
Does your building have hot and cold spots? Are some people wearing winter coats and others opening the windows? There are many possible causes of temperature variance. Your furnace may no longer be adequately sized for the needs of your space. You may have re-arranged the layout without changing the ductwork, or there may be holes in the ductwork. The fan motor may no longer be blowing adequately. HVAC companies in NJ are trained to get to the bottom of it, so call in a professional.
5. It’s actually making people sick
An inefficient HVAC system can cause a drastic reduction in indoor air quality leading to unpleasant and even dangerous symptoms. Are people complaining of headaches and nausea? You could have a crack in your furnace’s heat exchanger that’s leaking low levels of carbon monoxide throughout the building. Has there been an increase in cold and allergy symptoms? Your ventilation system could be spreading pollen, mold, bacteria and viruses. Obviously, this is a situation that needs immediate attention.
6. It’s making a mess
When your furnace is no longer working effectively, you will notice an increase in dust, humidity and condensation on the windows, and even mold problems throughout your building.
7. It’s making weird noises
Is your furnace making noises that are driving everyone in the building crazy? All those bumps, clanks and rattles are a sign that your furnace is worn out. As your furnace ages and parts get worn, it can get progressively nosier. Think of it as a wake-up call. It’s time to think about a new unit that will give you both peace of mind and peace and quiet.
8. It’s broken!
If your furnace has broken down, and you’ve already noticed most of the above warning signs, it’s probably time to consider a replacement.
Even if your furnace is still working and you’ve noticed these issues, it’s in your best interest to start researching replacement options. This gives you time to find the right equipment at the right price for your needs.
Are you facing a decision about whether to repair an ailing furnace or spring for a new one? It can be a challenge to know who to trust. There are many factors to consider, including the age and condition of the equipment, what exactly is broken, as well as other soft costs and intangibles that you might fail to think about.